Frequently Asked Questions

Bench test fees only apply to units that are sent in for a tear down and bench test evaluation or where we attempt to make repairs to a unit but it is determined to be unrepairable due to extensive damage or the need for non serviceable or unattainable parts. Bench test fees also apply in cases where a customer decides not to proceed with repairs or replacement once the unit has been evaluated. Bench fees vary depending on the extent of the testing or work that is being done but will range from $49 - $79 unless you are quoted otherwise.
If we are repairing or replacing your unit, bench fees are waived and you are just paying for the repair service / replacement

It is recommended that your cluster be wrapped in bubble wrap and then placed in  box with at least 2" of clearance on all sides to leave room for more packaging material to FILL UP the empty space and prevent damage to your cluster.
To fill up the empty space in the box you may use bubble wrap, newspaper or peanuts but please DO NOT place your cluster directly into shredded paper or in packaging peanuts as they carry static electricity which can cause damage to sensitive electronics from static discharge.
Inside of the box should be your repair order form with all of your information, otherwise there could be a delay in processing your order if we don't know who the part belongs to or what it was sent in for.
Also, the box should be taped up well and addresses clearly marked.

First, see if we have your vehicle along with the problems that your are experiencing is in our system by clicking on the "Find Repairs / Order Form" tab.
Next, enter in your year, make and model and click on "Find Repairs"
If your vehicle and its symptoms come up in our description of repairs then you can proceed with filling out the repair order form.
If your vehicle or symptoms do not come up on our website then you may contact us by phone or email to see whether or not we offer repairs for what you are experiencing.

For repairs that are not listed on our website or in cases where you have been instructed to do so, there is a "General Repair Order Form" tab at the bottom of the page that you can fill out and include in the box with your unit when it is sent in.

NOTICE: Once the repair order has been submitted you will receive an email confirmation of your repair order which you can then print out. If you do not submit your order we will not have a copy on our end, which in some cases could delay your repair if it  is a model we need to special order parts for.

We advise everyone to fill out a repair order form and include a copy in the box with the unit that you are sending in for repairs. Having all the information will also help prevent delays when processing your order and completing your repairs.
A repair order form will  have the information we need to contact you as well as identify the repairs that need to be made.
If you are unable to print off a repair order, then at least filling one out will give us an email copy and then you can just include a note inside of the box so we can match it up to your package when it arrives.

NOTICE: Once the repair order has been submitted you will receive an email confirmation of your repair order which you can then print out. If you do not submit your order we will not have a copy on our end, which in some cases could delay your repair if it  is a model we need to special order parts for.

For repair services found on our website, we stock most of the parts needed to complete your repairs in a short time period which is typically a 1-3 day turn around depending on workload.
For unusual problems or repairs that are not found on the website, there may be additional time needed to locate the necessary replacement parts to complete the job.

We generally ship using Priority mail from the Post Office which tends to be the most economical way to ship and average shipping time is 2 days anywhere in the country and sometimes 3 to 4 days to some rural areas.
To save on shipping costs use a box with total dimmensions of 37" - 38" when possible.
Most clusters will fit in an 18" x 10" x 6" box and still allow room for enough packaging material.

No, your odometer reading will remain the same as it is not affected by the service and you will be receiving your original unit back unless your unit was unrepairable and other options were discussed.

* Although it may be possible to drive your vehicle without an instrument cluster we would advise you to seek alternative transportation if possible to avoid the risks associated with not having access to your gauges or warning lamps.

* GM trucks and SUV'S can be driven without the instrument cluster in place, however you will be operating blind with regard to speed and warning lights. Once your cluster has been reinstalled your Check Engine light may be illuminated, but should reset after a few trips. Alternatively this could be reset manually with a scan tool.

* Some GM vehicles have a security disable feature that will only allow it to be started once when it has been removed and then will fail to start again.

* On some Fords and Nissans the charging system will not function without the cluster installed.

* Some Volkswagen and Audi vehicles will not start with the cluster removed due to the immobilizer feature.

* On some vehicles, to prevent starting problems and to keep trouble codes from setting the ignition key should not be turned on for the duration of time that the cluster is unplugged.

Typical symptoms of a faulty cluster include:

1) sticking, inoperative or erratic gauges
2) cluster turns off an on automatically
3) dim or inoperative message center & odometer displays
4) faulty gauge illumination
5) symptoms that tend to go away after a slap on the dashboard
6) displays that are pix-elated or missing portions
7) inaccurate gauge readings

A speedometer needs an input signal to work and this generally comes from a speed sensor mounted on the transmission or differential housing but sometimes comes from ABS modules as well.
If the input responsible for speedometer operation is interrupted or not there at all, then your speedometer will not work.  You should then have your vehicle scanned for codes and diagnosed if needed to determine the source of the problem.

TIP: These are not hard fast rules because there are exceptions but here are a few tips to help you determine where to start with your problem.

1) If your speedometer does not work and your odometer does not add mileage then it is possible the problem is not in the cluster itself but in the sensor or circuit instead.

2) If your speedometer is sticking, erratic or inoperative but your odometer still adds mileage then it is possible that the problem is in the cluster itself.

Occasionally the oil sender unit will short out internally and cause the needle to peg out but return to 0 when the key is turned off.
If you suspect a faulty sender, unplug the sender and inspect for oil leakage and monitor the gauge's reaction with it unplugged to see if you get the same reaction.

In some cases, but checking all the fuses is a good place to start and also checking the powers and grounds at the connector may be necessary.
Some failures may be typical of your unit and can be found under the repair description of your vehicle.

Faulty sender units are common to some GM vehicles, but generally speaking will start malfunction at the same fuel level every time due to wear at the sender grid.
Also, you may get a fault trouble code which is usually an indication of a faulty sender or circuit.
A malfunctioning gauge esp. on some GM vehicles will be stuck and not move at all or be off the scale altogether.

In most cases an illuminated warning lamp will be on because there is a fault in the system associated with the light.
It is recommended that you have your vehicle scanned for codes to see if there are any present and then have your vehicle troubleshooted and repaired as necessary.

There are some vehicles that may illuminate a warning lamp or multiple warning lamps and the fault is in the cluster.
If there are no fault codes in the system then that may be an indicator of the instrument but can be other things as well.

Most of todays vehicles use LED's for warning lamps and don't burn out on their own unless a filament bulb was used and the light has been on for a long time.

One of the most common reasons that we find for the lack of warning lamp illumination would be tampering with the cluster where someone has either blocked off the lamp or removed it altogether.

Another reason for inoperative warning lamps is that the ECM or other module is not triggering the light to come on due to a fault in the module itself.